Too often, I find myself in the medina around dinner time (american), crazily stalking the avenue like a rabid hyena, in search of food. It seems that no matter how much conditioning I put myself through, my stomach begins complaining soon after it gets dark. I cannot seem to get over it; I eat a king’s meal at four, yet I have a pauper’s appetite come 6:30. My home breaks the padlock on the fridge at 10:30 PM, and no sooner, so I often resort to street food. Not that it’s all bad; some of my best meals have taken place meandering from one vendor to the next, sampling a little pomegranate, then some roasted chestnuts, fresh cheese (jben) and popcorn. In fact, I can’t recall anything but sweet and savory memories out on Mo 5 (the medina mainstreet). Come to think of it, the crowning achievement of Moroccan cuisine may be none other than a street specialty–escargots soup. It may just be the crowning achievement of on-the-go food.
Now at the mention of snails, most people in the states (save for those with french blood), turn tail immediately…but hear me out. Imagine an earthy, herby broth redolent of a truffle forest, with undertones of cumin and seawater, with a complexity reminiscent of a good brandy. Add to that a novel protein with a texture and flavor similar to broiled mushrooms, and you have a harmony of heavenly chords in this simple dish…it has to be tasted to be believed. Best eaten on foot, hunched over a small bowl with the weapon of choice-a toothpick-for getting every last morsel of flavor.
You’ll find the “recipe” below.
Traditionally, this soup is seasoned primarily with marjoram. The snails, however, provide most of the flavor. Feel free to substitute mushrooms (use exotic chanterelles, oyster, shiitake, lobster, porcini or trumpet) for vegetarians (and the squeamish), or try other shellfish (though I wouldn’t recommend it). Remember, when using shellfish, be sure to wash them thoroughly and discard any that don’t close with a tap on the head. They are done as soon as they begin to open, please, for your sake, don’t overcook them.
A NOTE ON SNAILS:
You can buy cooked snails or use garden snails, but you must purify them by leaving them in a container with a mix of flour and water or mixed greens for at least 5 days before cooking. This recipe is for raw snails. If cooked, just bring the other ingredients to a boil and add snails at the end.
2-3 dozen small snails (or small mushrooms/half that if using other shellfish)
1/2 tablespoon cumin
Scant 2 liters (or about 4 quarts) of water or vegetable stock
1/4-1/2 cup minced marjoram (feel free to substitute other herbs)
~Salt
~LOTS of freshly ground black pepper
~More marjoram or other herbs to garnish
-Bring the stock and herbs to a boil. Add snails and cook 40-45 minutes. Season and serve.
November 13th, 2009 at 2:48 pm
Hi Max, I think the fruit you are talking about is what I was told is ‘bakhano”, red little berry type fruits? I did get your message on my blog and whilst I am no expert on Moroccan food would be happy to chat to you. Contact me via my e-mail.
Wendy
November 14th, 2009 at 7:56 am
Thanks so much! Both for the reply and offer…that’s exactly what I stumbled upon! For the link, to see what this alien fruit looks like, check out: http://blogs.food24.com/canda1/something-new
thanks again, we’ll be in touch.